Love the concept for this game so much, it’s horrifying.
SO I GOT A HOMURA FIGURE AT THIS LAST CONVENTION AND IT WON’T STAND UP PROPERLY
unless she holds Madoka’s hand
person: Pokemon is such a childish game, why are you playing it?
i’m so fucking done with this site
*hides good snacks from family members*
IF YOU HAD ROOM WITH ABSOLUTELY NOTHING IN IT AND THE WALLS CEILING AND FLOOR WERE MADE OF MIRROR WHAT WOULD IT LOOK LIKE IN THE MIRRORS
Holy shit I asked my dad who’s a physics teacher and he just looked at me, looked at the table, looked at me, tried not to smile, looked angry, and started to look up where you can buy big mirrors.
this is an actual room of mirrors.
as you can see, it leads to glitches in the matrix
i cant wait for it to be fall so it can look nothing like any of these pictures
I thought watermelon just had too much rind and that was wrong until I saw the next gif
I didn’t know that people are mangoes and kiwis any other way. Why the fuck would you do that?
Saw this on facebook the other day and seriously fell in love. This is so freaking awesome and helps eliminate waste. Definitely trying these ways from now on.
❤ - tumblr user i would date
❣ - an unpopular opinion I have
★ - my personal blog url
❧ - other websites i’m on
✗ - skype
♣ - my nickname
¤ - my real name
♞ - my age
✾ - tv series i love
◎ - relationship status
◆ - my opinion of you
❂ - post a picture of myself
Do-It-Yourself 3DMG is possible, guys! And it’s not as hard as you think!
Here’s how I did it…
- - - BOXES - - -
What you’ll need: lots of sturdy cardboard or foam board, packing tape, scissors, silver and/or brown spray paint, hot glue or super glue, and paper brads
- Take the cardboard and cut and tape it together with craploads of packing tape until they’re in the shape you want. Mine are 30.5in long, 7.5in high, and 4.5in wide.
- On one of the narrow sides, cut out six slots (or three, depending on your preference / general box size) of equal distance. Mine are 1in x 3in.
- For the metal ‘tank-holder’ bars, get cardboard or foam board (which is what I used here) and make them as tall as your boxes plus as tall as your gas tanks. Cut additional pieces to bridge the two metal pieces, and others to decorate the box up is you choose (I put some on the sides just for show). Don’t glue or tape them to your box yet!
- Spray paint the box bodies brown or silver (mine are brown but they should be silver; that was my mistake). If your paint appears dull, buy some clear lacquer spray paint and spray over it again to give it gloss.
- Spray the metal pieces (separately!) like above and add gloss if you need to. To give mine a buffer metal look, I didn’t use any. I also poked paper brads in where the screws should go.
- Finally, glue the metal pieces on the box with hot glue or super glue. If you choose to use hot glue, use a lot. Hot glue will not normally stick to paint unless you use a ton.
- - - GAS TANKS - - -
What you’ll need: two full-sized poster boards, scissors, two disposable water bottles, two glue sticks, and a piece of cardboard big enough for both of the bases of the water bottles to sit on.
- Empty the bottles and cut off their tops, right at the top of the paper wrapping.
- Roll both poster boards tight enough so the bottle tops will fit over them. Glue / tape everything in place.
- Take the two glue sticks and hot glue them to the tops of the bottle tops.
- Stand your gas tanks upright so the empty end is down. Trace out two circles on the cardboard / foam board.
- Cut out those circles and glue them to seal the open ends of the tanks.
- Spray paint everything silver. Again, use a clear spray paint to add sine if you need it (I chose not to, again, so they’d look more like metal).
- Slip them inside the tops of your finished boxes and glue or tape in place very securely. This is where they will be attached to you, so make it tight. I used a lot of hot glue.
- To put on the box/gas tank pieces, slip two dark strings around the gas tanks and tie them around your belt loops. If they’re flopping around when you walk, fix them in place by safety pinning the box itself to your pants, but don’t let them carry any weight, or you run the risk of them popping, getting bent, ripping the boxes, or ripping your pants. The finished pieces are only about five pounds apiece, and are very easy to move in. I can jump, run, and climb stairs as fast and easily in mine as I could without them.
- - - SWORD HANDHELDS - - -
What you’ll need: one foam board, paper brads or small screws, paper and a printer, colored pencils, black and brown paint, two small pieces of brown pleather, scissors, a screwdriver or nail, two bottle caps, and two long black strings.
- Get a foam board or large piece of sturdy cardboard, and paper brads or small screws.
- Find a picture of the sword handhelds online and trace them out on paper. I did not find any that were useful to me, so I drew my own using my own hand as scale.
- Color code your sketch so you know how many layers of board to put in certain spots. Mine are three layers of foam board thick, with additional small layers in certain spots. The triggers are only one board thick, as well as the large handle on the side.
- Cut out all the pieces you’ll need and glue them all together, except for the large side-handle.
- Take two bottle caps and glue them on the fat ends of each handle, then glue the bottle caps to the sides of your handhelds.
- Hand-paint everything accordingly. Find the place where you hold the handhelds from and cut out the outline of that place on the pleather, then glue it on.
- When you’re finished, take a screwdriver or sharp nail and poke holes in the board where there are metal screws / rivets. Stick in the paper brads and paint over their bottoms to disguise them.
- Hot glue long black strings on the bottom of each handheld, and their other ends to the undersides of the spools.
- - - SWORD BLADES - - -
What you’ll need: one foam board (don’t use cardboard this time), one box of aluminum foil, one can of spray adhesive, scissors or an Exacto knife, a rubber band, and some electrical tape.
- Trace out the shape of the blades you want, but make them only as wide as your handhelds are. Mine are 29in x 2.5in. Cut them out.
- Get the box of aluminum foil and stretch it out so they’re as long as your blades. Lay the blades down side-by-side and coat each with a thick layer of spray adhesive.
- Quickly flip them over on the aluminum and press out any air bubbles or wrinkles. You’ll only have about thirty seconds before it sets.
- Do the same on the other sides. Cut away the excess aluminum or wrap it around the edges.
- Hot glue them on your handhelds and secure at the bases with electrical tape.
- Now slip them inside the slots in your boxes. If they are flopping around or are at risk of falling out, cut two small pieces of rubber band and put them on the slots in your boxes. When you want the swords to be stored away in the boxes, slide them in and slip the rubber band around them somewhere to keep them from sliding. When you want to take them out, slip the rubber band off and slide them out.
- - - SPOOLS / NOZZLE - - -
What you’ll need: a large piece of cardboard / foam board, both small and large paper brads, poster board, toothpicks, gray, brown, and black paint, scissors, hot glue, and two large pieces of industrial strength black Velcro.
- Get a plastic lid and trace out the tops of the two spools on either side of the fan. Mine are 5.5in in diameter, and in the picture above, are seen in gray. Cut them out.
- Trace out the same shape on the poster board and lay it underneath the heads of the spools. In the pictures above, I used foam board, but I wouldn’t recommend it; it makes the top thicker than necessary and poster board works just as well.
- Take another piece of poster board, and cut it as long as the circumference is on your spool heads. Then cut off another inch or so. Make them as wide as you want your spools to be deep. Mine are 2.5in wide. Tape both ends together so it will stand up as a circle, and glue it underneath your spool head.
- Trace the lid again on your foam board or cardboard and glue it to the open end of your rolled poster board.
- Cut out about ten curved ‘L’ shapes on foam board or cardboard. Lay the unfinished spools on their tops. Place the short sides of the ‘L’s on the bottoms of the spools, with their tall backs to the center. Make them equidistant to one another!
- Glue a small square piece of cardboard or foam board (only about an inch in each direction or so) to the bottoms, and glue a larger cardboard piece (I used 3.5in in each direction) to that little piece at about a 45 degree angle. It will look really unstable and may not hold together well yet, but the central nozzle piece will hold it in place.
- To make the central nozzle piece, do the same thing as the spools. But make it smaller. Mine is only 4.5 inches in diameter. Also, the poster board that is measured as the circumference does not need any length taken off of it unlike above. You may also cut out a smaller piece for the top of the nozzle just for decoration, like I did.
- Cut out a little nozzle’s shape and glue it to the side of the round nozzle body, and glue a small piece of cardboard or foam board underneath the round body at a 45-degree angle. Use extra glue here.
- Glue the back of the nozzle body to the fronts of two cardboard plates, facing in the same direction as the spools. Add small piece of cardboard where you’ll need it for reinforcements.
- Hand-paint accordingly. Stick paper brads in where screws would be. Also, roll a bunch of toothpicks in gray or silver paint (I forgot to do that) and then stick them on the sides of the spools.
- Put large pieces of black industrial Velcro on the backs of the two large cardboard plates; where they’ll attach to your back. Do the same on your leather straps and where they look like they should attach with the spool/nozzle mechanism. Most Velcro is adhesive on the back so it should stick, but you can use hot glue to reinforce it. To put it on, simply press the whole thing against the matching side on your straps. It weighs only a pound or two and will absolutely not fall off if your Velcro is strong enough. It’s also easy to move in and easy to take off / on.
Total time for everything: one month (but it could be shorter if I wasn’t so slow to do it)
Cost: Less than $50
It may be tedious, but this is definitely possible! This is by far the biggest cosplay feat I’ve overcome yet, and I’m very glad I did so. If you really want to make some 3DMG for your next SNK cosplay, do it! Don’t hesitate! All it really is is shaping and gluing basic materials into the shapes you need, then painting them to look realistic. It may be more time consuming than ordering online, but the bonus is that you can customize it (both to your liking and your body size/shape), and make it better than anything you’ll find. It’s very cheap to do if you’ve already got most of these materials at home, and really the only working space needed is a wide, flat area (like a garage floor or patio or unused table) and a tablecloth. I even took this to a con and got non-stop compliments on it, though I told them it was actually really simple to make, so I made this tutorial for anyone who wants to try it. Give it a shot!